It takes a tremendous amount of dedication to become one of the top big mountain skiers in the world. Pro skier Dane Tudor is at the top of his game. The following video shows what it takes to get there… I think that there’s something to be said abou…
Paige Claassen shares how she managed to find time amid a grueling two-month work schedule to prepare for one of America’s hardest sport climbs. This week one of America’s most iconic sport-climbing…
The post No Time to Train: How Paige Sent Her Proj With Only 1 Hour Per Day appeared first on Evening Sends.
Mani the Monkey is a climber and climbing coach that has put together a youtube channel filled with excellent training and technique information for climbing movement skills. We’ve featured several of Mani’s videos on the blog over the last several mon…
One of the most common misconceptions I hear from climbers is that taking protein supplements is going to make you too bulky to climb. This is an opinion that I hear so frequently that I think it’s time to debunk it once and for all. Sorry, but increasing your protein intake, whether through a diet […]
The post Will Protein Supplements Make Me Too Bulky to Climb? appeared first on Evening Sends.
Years ago as a gumby in my very first year of climbing, I was looking through guidebooks in Rock and Snow in New Paltz, New York, when a random old-schooler started spouting off about how he had attained his current level of strength and fitness. It took me a moment to realize that this Verve-clad […]
Answering Jeff’s Question: “Why do we bother doing this?” In the last 5,000 foot climb of the Ouray 50 mile run, Jeff Stephens, my pacer, asked me this question. It was two o’clock in the morning and we had just embarked on the final ten miles of the race. “There is no grand enlightenment waiting […]
With my daily exercises, I did everything I could to progress the return of range of motion, strength and muscle mass. At first, I could only really do 1-2 hours per day, but by the third week that was more like three in total. Early on I was just doing a ton of grip and pinch exercises, biceps curls with my arm supported, internal/external rotations with tubing or my other hand for resistance, isometrics at different angles and many more.
It got noticeably better every day, although there were of course still some mornings when I felt rotten, and some evenings when I sloped off to bed exhausted and sore at 7pm. Speaking of bed, the exercises were as always only half the picture. These days I am rather more careful to enforce a minimum amount of sleep, go after a far higher maximum and I’m much more careful with my diet now I have better knowledge on what I’m optimising for. While its not possible to know just how much all of these things make a difference, here is the output so far.
I can’t yet tolerate long training sessions, any really hard moves at 45 degrees, forceful ‘gaston’ press moves, very dynamic jumps on steep ground, or other heavy loading of the AC joint with my arm overhead. To me that feels like excellent progress, and I’m still seeing daily improvement. I’m sure I’m not the first climber with this injury so I’ll report back as a few more weeks pass and see what I can manage or cant manage.
So let’s see what the next month brings. It would be doing well to be worse than the previous one.
Do You Practice Yoga? You may practice yoga already without necessarily labeling it as yoga. A formal yoga practice can involve much, much more than just an asana (pose) practice, and practicing yoga does not necessarily include asana for all formal yoga practitioners. Additionally, it’s by no means a far stretch to consider a regular […]
The post Multi Sport Mental Toughness appeared first on SCARPA North America.